If you are in need of a stair runner but aren’t interested or ready to commit to a custom runner, this article is for you! This week we installed a runner on our stairs using a ready-made runner and the process was far easier than we anticipated. Here’s how to install a stair runner using ready-made runners.
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We have slipped and almost fallen (our poor pup Teddy included) on our stairs enough times that it became clear that a stair runner was a safety necessity. Given that our entryway will undergo an extensive renovation in the future (including refinishing the floors), I wasn’t ready to commit to a custom runner or anything too expensive, so I searched for ready-made runners that could be used as a stair runner. Lo and behold, there are many options and I landed on this jute and cotton runner with a subtle ivory stripe. It’s perfect!
SUPPLIES NEEDED TO INSTALL A RUNNER:
– Runners – I used 3 (I linked 11 runners I love here)
– Rug Pad (I used two 2’x8′ runners)
– Crown Stapler
– Crown Staples (I used 7/8″ and 1½” staples)
– Utility Knife
– Tape Measure
Before I dive into how to install a stair runner, there are are few staircase terms I’ll be using that would be helpful to understand. Below is the anatomy of a staircase –
How To Install A Stair Runner
1. Measure For The Placement Of The Rug Pad & Runner
To determine the placement of your rug pad and runner, you’ll need to do some simple math:
- (width of stairs) – (width of rug pad) = X
- X ÷ 2 = Y
- Y = The gap on either side of the runner/rug pad
You’ll need to do this equation twice. Once to determine the placement of the rug pad and once to determine the placement of the runner. In our case, the stairs are 36″ wide. The rug pad is 24½” wide. So, 36″ – 24½” = 11½”. Then, 11½” ÷ 2 = 5¾” This is how far our rug pad needs to be from the edge of the stair.
Pick one side of the stairs and mark each step at your determined measurement. In our case, I marked each step from the left side at 5¾”.
SOMETHING TO NOTE:
Initially, we assumed we would need to ensure that the runner would stay centered on each step with an equal gap on either side of the runner. But after doing some research, we realized that the width of the stairs will likely alter slightly from one step to another. If you keep your runner centered on steps that aren’t all equal widths, your runner will sway. If your runner has stripes, you’ll notice the stripes swaying. To keep your stripes (and your runner) straight, line up the runner on just one side of the steps the whole way up. The difference in the gap will be negligible and unnoticeable in the end.
2. Cut The Rug Pad
We chose this 1/8″ felt and rubber pad in the 2×8 runner size. We used two in total.
You’ll want to install the rug pad over both the tread and the nosing, but not the riser. Which means you’ll need to cut your rug pad into sections. Measure the depth of the stair tread and around the nosing. This is now deep each pad needs to be cut to.
Place your rug pad on a piece of wood, measure, and mark where you need to cut it. Using a ruler as a guide and a utility knife, cut enough pieces for every step. It’s easiest to cut all the pieces at once.
3. Install The Rug Pad
Place the rug pads on your stair marks – the marks you measured in step #1.
Using a crown stapler, staple the rug pad into place. We did three staples on the back and three under the nosing.
4. Install The Runner – Start At The Base Of The Stairs
Starting at the base of the steps, line up your runner with your measured marks. Staple the runner into the bottom of the riser, every 2″ or so to ensure it is secure.
I used 7/8″ staples, but you may need to use a different size depending on the thickness of your pad and runner.
5. Staple Under The Nosing (Optional)
There are two methods for installing a runner: the Hollywood method and the Waterfall method.
- The Hollywood Method (sometimes called Upholstered) is when you tuck and staple the runner under the nosing for a fitted look.
- The Waterfall Method is when you do not staple the runner under the nose, allowing the runner to cascade without interruption.
We chose the Hollywood Method. To install a runner using the Hollywood method, simply pull the runner taut, tuck it under the nosing, and staple it every few inches to secure it.
WHICH METHOD SHOULD YOU USE?
The Hollywood method is a more tailored, modern approach whereas the Waterfall method is more traditional. If your runner is a solid color or has a small pattern, the Hollywood method creates a custom look. Meanwhile, a runner with a thick pile is much easier to install using the Waterfall method. If you choose to install stair rods, the Waterfall method is the more historically “correct” choice.
6. Staple To The Riser
As you’re installing the runner, you should be pulling it taut and stapling it to the riser of every step.
In summary, staple the runner to the bottom of the riser, tuck it under the nose and staple (optional), pull the runner taut over the next tread, and staple it to the next riser.
7. Cut The End Of The Rug
Since we’re working with ready-made runners that are only 8 ft in length, we have to address the ends. When I reached the end of the runner, Chris cut the end with a utility knife so that it stopped just before the nosing.
8. Staple The Raw Edge To Riser
Being extra gentle as to not let the rug unravel, I stapled the raw edge to the riser. Use as many staples as you feel necessary. I stapled every 1-2 inches.
9. Staple The 2nd Runner Overtop The Raw Edge
Grab a second runner and put the finished edge overtop the raw edge of the runner below. Pull the finished edge until it reaches the crease where the riser and the tread meet. Staple it into place. You will have two runner layers on this riser with the raw edge hidden behind. This ensures that no raw edge is exposed.
Continue to staple the rest of the runner in place.
10. Next, Work From The Top Down
Once you are a few steps away from the top, start working from the top down. Grab a third runner and line it up with the marks on the steps. Grab the end, staple it to the top of the riser, and again at the bottom of the riser. Pull it taut over the nosing and staple it under the nose. Work your way down until you meet up with the runner below.
DON’T FORGET!
Once you start working from the top down, don’t forget to check that the pattern of the new runner is lined up with the runner below. If your runner has an off-centered pattern, make sure you’re rotating it so that the patterns line up!
11. Hide The Raw Edges
Once your bottom runner and top runner meet up, you’ll need to hide two raw edges.
For the bottom runner, cut it just under the nosing as you did for the last raw edge. Staple it into place.
For the top runner, cut it a little longer than needed and fold the raw edge under. Line it up with the other runner and staple the folded edge to the bottom of the riser. You’ll want to use quite a few long staples to ensure that it stays in place and that it doesn’t unravel. This is when I used 1½” staples.
And that’s it how to install a stair runner! It’s a tedious job, but it is not hard. Regardless of your experience with home projects, if you consider yourself detail-oriented and patient, it’s absolutely doable!
Shop Supplies Needed To Install Your Own Stair Runner
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My sister sent me your blog article for the stair runner. I followed it to a tee and am so happy! Thank you!!
Love that! So glad you love how yours turned out!
Lovely job! If you had a 90 degree landing in the middle of the stairs, how would you have handled the runner…asking for a friend 😉
Haha tell your friend 😜 that I would probably use the bottom runner to cover the landing with a finished edge exposed. And then I’d connect a second runner to the landing runner going in the other direction to start going up the second half of the stairs.